The ordering of cables and lines from this site is relatively simple and intuitive if you understand the basics of its design. You may either search for product information by defining the application of the product by imputing the model and year of the motorcycle or, you can custom design the cable, brake line, etc. by using the custom order forms displayed for each product category.  And, when all else fails, please feel free to call us anytime between the hours of 8:30 and 5:00 EST for personalized expert assistance.

The following tips are listed by the different product categories. They are designed to help measure your cables as we would in our factory. The tools needed are a tape measure and some stiff wire such as piano wire.  The wire will be used to simulate your cable or line routing and let you “see” how it will look. Then, using the tape measure and the diagrams shown for each product category, you should be able to determine if there is a part number already listed that will fit your needs or, if a custom should be ordered.

If you determine you do require a custom cable or line, you will have all the information needed to fill out the order forms.

Throttle / Idle / Idle-Cruise Cables

• These three different control cables are treated basically the same
• You need to determine the bend angle of the tube at the handlebar end
• Watch for interference -  the choice of tube may look good, but will it hit the fuel tank or other parts ?
• Using the wire, follow the desired routing path – watch out for sharp bends
• Watch for rubbing of the cable housing on paint of chrome
• Once you have found a good path for the cable, use the diagram on any of the throttle or idle pages to determine the length of the bent tube you will use
• Measure your length for wire and subtract the amount of bent tube – this will be your housing length
• You can also use your stock cable for a template and measure the difference, whether long or short to determine your new length

Clutch Cables

• When measuring a clutch cable, you need to consider the adjuster location, this is important because you want to adjuster to be accessible for maintaining the adjustment.  It is typically located mid-way on the frame down tubes
• Usually when designing a clutch cable, the lower leg length doesn’t change because this insures the correct location of the adjuster. Therefore, just the upper leg length and the resulting total length is affected
• You can also look up your bike and determine the stock lower cable or measure your cable
• Next, you want to plan the routing of the cable – watch for tight bends and rubbing of painted parts
• Try to keep the cable away from sharp edges such as the triple trees if possible
• You can use heavy or stiff wire to simulate your cable and measure its length or using your stock cable measure the difference, whether long or short relative to the handle bars to determine your new length

Brake Lines

• All types of lines are measured the same
• Universals are measured “tip to tip”, not to the edge of the nut, but rather inside the nut at the face of the flange.
• Make sure you leave room for the adapter fitting you will be using – they can add 2 or more inches to the length
• Route your line path with stiff wire to simulate the line – watch for hot or moving parts – the line should have touch points where it can be securely mounted to without creating a tug or pull on the line when steering or compressing the bike’s suspension.
• Make sure to leave enough length to accommodate movement of the front forks or the rear swing arm
• Custom Single Disc Brake Lines are measured the same way except the banjo fittings are part of the line
• The diagram on the products page shows where the banjos are measured from 
• Follow the desired routing path form the caliper to the master cylinder and choose the banjo angle that best fits your application – use stiff wire to lay out your line – measure the wire to get the length needed
• Upper Designer Kits are measured form the top of the lower triple tree to the master cylinder -  choose the banjo angle needed to compliment the routing choice
• There is a diagram in the Upper Designer Lines page that shows how the line is measured
• Rear kits and Lower Designer Kits usually do not change – If you have special requirements for anything other than a stock kit, call or e-mail us regarding ordering these with custom specifications

Ignition Wires

• Ignition Wires use the same steps as other line and cables to measure
• Make sure they do not touch or rub if possible
• They are measured “tip to tip”
• See appropriate page to view measuring diagram
• Your terminal ends need to match the particular coil you are using
• All spark plug ends are the same – just different angles
• When routing make sure wires to do rub against a sharp edge – like a bracket – this may cut the clear dielectric coating
• Clear coating should not be cut or split – it will create a static “capacitor leak” and cause electrical interference and possible running issues